Published January 5th, 2006 by Jim O'Halloran
Hyper 7 Journal - Part 2 (Run-In)
Armed with a fully assembled Hyper 7, and the usual extras like glow warmer, glow plugs, and fuel, I was ready to start running in the motor.
There wasn’t much in the way of instructions on this with the Hyper 7 itself, but again juls offered some excellent advice. First of all, on preparing to start the Hyper 7’s engine…
As for break in, to get the car started, you will need a glow ignighter, glow plug, fuel and batterys.
Put Fuel into the tank, check the glow plug warmer and the plug is working before you put the plug into the engine, (be careful not to cross thread the plug into the head) Prime the engine, (get the fuel upto the carb) there is a few ways, you can take the pressure hose off the exhaust and blow on it, or put your finger over the exhaust exit and pull over the motor. only prime until you see the fuel reach the carb, don’t continue to prime it’s only a tiny motor you can flood the motor in a millisecond!!
once it’s primed, open the carb about 1-2mm more than idle, so just a bit more than Idle, you don’t need to open and shut the carb or leave it wide open to get it started, you’ll just flood the motor if you do that.
I tried both techniques for priming the fuel line, and in the end I find disconnecting the exaust line and gently blowing into it until fuel reaches the engine worked a lot better for me. Of course if the car has been run recently and the motor is still warm this is somewhat less pleasant, but it was the most reliable way. Keep blowing until all bubbles are out of the fuel line. It is fairly easy (especially the first couple of times) to flood the engine with this technique. If the motor is difficult to pull over after priming, I found the easiest way to fix it was to remove the glow plug and pull the starter cord a few times until it frees up. Excess fuel will spray out of the head when you do this so be careful not to end up with any in your eyes or face when you do.
As long as you only connect it to the glow warmer briefly, the plug itself doesn’t get that hot. I found it pretty easy to hold the plug in my fingers and push the tip into the warmer far enough to touch both contacts without the warmer locking onto the plug. Once I’d seen the fillament light up I knew everything was cool.
The Hyper 7 is pretty sensative to throttle position when starting, at idle throttle it won’t start, but about 2mm open from idle was spot on. I found the easiest way to acheive this was to wind the trim knob on the transmitter clockwise as far as it would go, this gave pretty much an ideal position without having to hold the transmitter while starting.
As far as starting the motor itself, juls advises…
now put the glow plug warmer onto the glow plug, make sure it has a good connection. Some glow plug warmers have Gauges on them so you can see it’s connected and the glow plug is working. (suggest buying 2-3 glow plugs so you have spares)
once you have primed it, got the right carb opening, glow plug warmer is on and working. now it’s time to pull on the rope. At this point, remember the size of the motor IT’s NOT A LAWNMOWER!! that means you can’t yank on the rope like hell, because you WILL break it.. garanteed.. Short 8″ long pulls are all thats required, 10″ long pulls will probably eventually break the pullstarter, either the rope or the return spring. Pullstarters are not cheap!
Pull on the rope approx 4-10 times, if after 10 pulls it’s not going, or showing signs of going, then something is wrong, repeat the entire procedure, if it becomes very difficult to pull on,like it is internally hydraulically locking up, you have flooded the motor, stop do not continue to try and start it, you’ll break either the pullstart or a internal component of the motor.
I found the morot was very difficult to pull over the first few starts. After all the run-in process is meant to loosen it up, ao this shouldn’t be too surprising I guess. It also seemed prone to flooding and hydraulically locking. If this happened, the best fix was to remove the plug and pull the cord a couple of times to flush out the excess fuel (you’ll feel the motor loosen up with each oull when you do this).
If after 10 or so pulls the engine still doesn’t start…
Go over everything, make sure you primed it properly, make sure you have the right carb opening, that the glow plug and it’s warmer is working. (you can put a glow plug into the warmer external of the engine see if it glows to test it)
This is good advice, check the plug again even if you checked it before you tried starting it. On one start I couldn’t get the engine to fire, and eventually pulled the plug out and checked it on the warmer. In the intervening time the warmer went flat. Having a couple of plugs around will help you determine whether the warmer itself is flat or a blown plug. Of course a warmer with a voltage guage is even better, but mine doesn’t have one of those.
Other things I’ve found to check at this stage… Look for bubbles in the fuel line. Make sure its primed properly. If all else fails, take the plug out and pull the cord a couple of times to make sure its not flooded. Check the throttle position too, mine only seems to start reliably with the throttle trim wounf on as far as it would go.
When the car does fire, with the throttle tim all the way on the first thing the car will want to to is take off. The clutch has only just started to take up at that throttle setting so its pretty easy to hold the car in place. I waited 20-30 seconds before removing the warmer, then would the throttle trim down a little so the car would sit there without being held down. I found I couldn’t wind the trim back to full idle until the engine was warm without it cutting out, so just back if off enough to stop the car from taking off for a minute or two.
Once its started, don’t go basking around the back yard/street straight away, we’ve got to run the engine in first. This is a time consuming process, but if you don’t do this properly and carefully now you’ll destroy the motor in the long run. Juls advises the following run in…
supposing you get it started, for the first tank of fuel idle the motor. after that you can carefully drive the car “Slowly” for about 3-4 tanks of fuel, be careful not to reach full acceleration or high RPMs of any sort. over a period of 5-8 tanks you can slowly push the car a bit harder each tank, until 8-10 tanks then you can start to really push the car and tune it up for performance.
This is pretty much want I did. I ran 3 tanks through the car at idle on the ground. Do this on some bare dirt somewhere though, because plenty of fuel will come out the exhaust while its running. Then I put 3 tanks through the car out in the street running the motor with just enough revs for the clutch to take up and get the car moving. By the end of the 6th tank I was pushing the car a little harder, but again never to full throttle. For tanks 7 - 10, I went down to the mocal track and slowly cruised around, steadily building up the speed. On the last tank I started to reach full throttle on the straights, and attack the jumps a bit harder. Now that it’s had 10 tanks of fuel through, I’ll put a couple more through at full pace, then start to tunr the motor (it’s still running very rich).
It was on the first (slow) run in the street I discovered a problem with the throttle linkages. Even at full brakes the car just didn’t slow down. After a bit of investigation on the bench, I discovered that the full brake throw on the servo wasn’t enough to get the brakes to engage. The length of the brake linkages is adjustable though, so I was able to shorten them up a bit. While I was at it I shortend the linkage to the front brake disc a little more than the rear. This has the effect of adjusting the brake bias so that more braking is done on the front wheels, pulling the car up quicker without the rear end locking up and causing a spin. After that the brakes were so good you could see the nose of the car dive for the ground under brakes! Cool!
I also found the front ride height was a little too low, so before running on the street I inserted a couple of the supplied spacers into the front shocks and it rode much higher. Decent ground clearance is important to avoid excessive damage to the bottom of the chassis while jumping, and to avoid the chassis coming into contact with the ground on rough sectins of the track. If the chassis touches the ground it will totally upset the ride of the car and make it really difficult to control on bumpy secontions.
After running the car around the Morphett Vale track, I also added spacers to the rear of the car as well. While not as low as the front it was still slapping the ground off of jumps. With the car basically riding level again now it also seemed a little more fogiving to drive and jumped a bit better. Overall a deinate plus!
I’ll give it a couple more runs on its current rich setting, then start leaning the motor out and tuning for performance. There is a basic tuning guide written by ofna here: I’m not an expert in nitro cars (this is my first one), but taking into account all the advice I have and everything I’ve read, the above procedures work well for me and shouldn’t damage the engine. Of course, if you’re reading this and thinking “he’s an idiot, you shouldn’t do xyz”, please leave a comment below, I’d love to hear from you (seriously).
I haven’t really driven this car to its limits at this stage, but so far I’m impressed. Even after adding two large spacers to all of the shocks the suspension is nice and supple, soaking up the bumps with ease and keeping the car solidly planted on the track. Definatly a characteristic you want in an off road car! The car itself is really solidly built, even through I wasn’t pushing hard a few messy jumps had the car cartwheeling down the track, and nothing was broken.
So far this car is everything I bought it for. Great fun to drive, fairly easy to get along with, and a decent little performer. Looking forward to running it more on the weekend.
Trent Says
Hey, my name is Trent i have recently bought a HoBao/OFNA hyper7 tq from my lhs if you want soem tuning tips just ask me oh, i have all 5 spacers in all four of my shocks it soaks it up allot better. I live in qld and i mostly bash but when my local track opens i will be racing there i have leaned mine out allot but there is still smoke from the exhaust so its ok. I havn’t done a radar test but i have had it next to my pops car it goes about 75 kmh. Have fun with it.
Trent
Jan 13th, 2006 at 11:28 pm
luke Says
Hey, im Luke im 14 and i have been racing a hyper 7 for a season now going on to the second, i have got most mods and recently brought a Novarossi P5X which is a very powerful motor. I race at 3Araceway near handcross its a great track and very friendly people who will help you with your car and give you tips. Have fun with your buggy and look after it as they need quite a bit of maintenance.
Luke
Jan 23rd, 2006 at 12:47 am
frosty Says
hi jim,
just a few words here that ill probably get shot down for but as for an engine run in the method most companies is generaly wrong. the best way to run in an engine safely is using the heat cycle method. this method you will need a temp guage. you run your vehicle on the ground all the time and run for several minutes in a session keeping the temp below 250f and then allowing your engine to cool with the piston at bottom dead centre between each run. im sure if you do a google search on this method you will find full details on how to do it. also running your engine to rich for long periods puts a lot os strain on your conrod causing big problems down the track. youll find tuning your engine by ear with a temp guage handy is the best solution. also another tip. try a slightly heavier weight oil in your shock this will help jump wise. also make sure all your c hub ball ends are running really free. any sort of friction no matter how small will cause your buggy to not return to full ride height during a run. if you have any questions just email me.
Apr 9th, 2006 at 5:45 pm
Jack Says
Hello,
My hyper 7 buggy is reaching 125C at full rev (257F). It still spits a little fuel, but its running nearly perfect.
The Ofna website recommends some crazy things for car needle setup, i have somthing totally different.
Ofna
Gold Needle, 4 turns out from fully in.
Black Needle, 3 turns out from flush.
Brass Needle, flush.
My Settings
Gold Needle, 2.5 turns out from fully in.
Black Needle, 1.5 to 2 turns in from flush.
Brass Needle, 1 to 1.5 turns in from flush.
Yea i know that looks like im crazy, it can run a little hot, but it goes like it has a purpose.
Hope that made sence.
-Jack
Sep 24th, 2006 at 9:29 am
stu Says
hi can you help i am looking to download a users manual for a hyper 7 pbs
cheers stu.
Oct 30th, 2006 at 6:16 am
tristan Says
hi i just bought my first nitro buggy yesterday its a hyper 7 im triying to run it in now but when i try to take off the clutch wont evgage do i have to keep running it or do i adjust it and i also looking fo a users manual too
Nov 27th, 2006 at 12:19 pm
Dave Says
Hello,
Just brought our first Hyper 7 buggys and am also looking for a users manual, especially how to start it.
Any assistance is appreciated
Dec 25th, 2006 at 7:37 pm
Kevin Says
Hi all,
I got a Hyper 7 for christmas, my first nitro car!! I initially had trouble getting it started as the pull cord was very hard to pull when the glow plug was in - a great solution for this was to warm the engine up with a hair drier first, it started a treat then.
Now its running i have a few concerns;
firstly a full tank of fuel only lasts a few minutes while idling - i know the mixture has to be rich at first but is this too rich (the revs are very high while idling)
Also, the car seems to want to fly off when the last of the fuel ges to the carb, this has put me off driving it around the street while running in!
Any ideas/comments???????
To those who have been asking for a manual, i only recieved a manual for putting the car together, nothing about running it or settings. When i get a chance I will scan it and email to those who need it if you still want it, let me know - reform@bulldoghome.com
Dec 31st, 2006 at 5:11 am
benny Says
yeh i to have just bought this car as a first car , and have the same probs as all of you!!mine ran fine but didnt move faster then a brisk walk, i was told that this is normal cause it is running rich!! so the next day i backed the mixture skrew a little now i cant start it at all ,,,lol,, oh well back to the shop to sort it out .
Jan 3rd, 2007 at 4:48 pm
Kevin Says
Got it sussed!!!! took it too D&S racing models and he sorted it all out for me.
The throttle control was set back to front so that it was at full throttle when it was supposed to be idling and it slowed down when i pulled the accelerator…..DOH!!
After a bit of tweeking with the idle setting and the mixture he got it running a treat, and starts well too!
Great fun!! wish i got one years ago!!!
Jan 4th, 2007 at 12:22 am
Kevin Says
When i was happy that the engine was run in, I took the car to a local field to open the throttle up a bit.
After a few minuites of driving on the field the steering servo packed up
are these cars not supposed to be driven on grass??????
To make it worse i can find a supplier that stocks original Hobao servos!!
Can they be repaired? if not, how do i know which alternative servo will fit and work ok?
Jan 12th, 2007 at 8:17 pm
Andy Says
Any servo will work, the ones supplied arent good, buy one that is high torque.
Jan 26th, 2007 at 9:11 am
stu w Says
hi
just found your site and thought it was a intresting read!
i have been building a hyper 7 pbs for about 6months now and have modified almost every part,these include full alloy kit (-lower arms)and i,ve just completed a hyper 8 receiver box and carbon radio tray conversion with lay down steering servo,a hyper 8 fuel tank and body are next on my list of mods
i’ll keep you posted,something i,ve found with the 8port engine is it offen tends to lose the carb settings regularly and needs to be retuned does anyone have the same problem? could it be the seals that need replaceing?
if anyone would like to see pics of my car let me know.
Feb 21st, 2007 at 6:40 am
Donna Says
You have an outstanding good and well structured site. I enjoyed browsing through it
Feb 22nd, 2007 at 5:23 am
Mike V Says
The standard Servos that you get with the car dont last very long especially when your doing jumps. If you do end up stripping your servo gear a quick fix to get you up and running again is to turn the servo gear around 180 degrees. Simply remove the servo from the car and remove the 4 screws from under the servo. This will allow you to remove the top cover exposing the gear set. Its always the large black gear that is stripped. Pull the black gear off and turn it 180 degrees but before you put it back on you will need to cut nobby thing off with a pair of cutter or sharp knife. You can now reassemble the servo and refit it to you car good as new. If the gear strips again a new replacement gear set is only about 5bucks at the lhs.
If you can afford it though a metal geared hi torque servo is the way to go.
Feb 24th, 2007 at 1:29 am
andy goodman Says
any ideas on setting up the brakes anyone pls
Mar 2nd, 2007 at 7:40 am
WILLIAM DUNN Says
HI JUST FOUND THIS SITRE AND FOUND SOME USEFUL THINGS. IM ALSO LOOKIN TO FIND SOME INFO ABOUT SETTIN UP THE BRAKES CAN ANY1 HELP?
Mar 6th, 2007 at 11:31 am
António Diamantino Says
Hi, i´m from Portugal and i’ve got my H7 PBS for 3 weeks now.
I’ve had the same problems with brakes. First it wouldn’t no braks at all on rear, tried to adjust the linkages, but just ended up with no brakes at all.
Then came to the conclusion that the brake pads on the rear were just too far apart, after tightening just a bit (i didn’t want for them to be rubbing while accelarating) i did get the rear to brake.
Second problem was to get it to brake on both ends evenly when i had it good on the rear the front didn’t do enough or the other way around.
Solution… Cut two bits of fuel tube and put it on both linkages (between the servo arm and the adjustable colar).
Now i’ve got perfect, progressive braking, the on/off effect disappeard.
Hope this helps.
Mar 10th, 2007 at 10:37 am
António Diamantino Says
P.S. Sorry for the bad english. But as i said… I’m portuguese. Hope you undestand.
Mar 10th, 2007 at 10:39 am
modra Says
hi i am in the process of making a web site to help you all with your problems so please check her again in a week or so for the web site address mean while you can ask any questions and hopefully i can help you out as this is my third hyper 7 so i have a pritty good idea on how they go and on some setup info and web sites hat may be of good use. please dont hesatate to contact me for any questions.
Mar 12th, 2007 at 7:50 pm
modra Says
hi i am in the process of making a web site to help you all with your problems so please check here again in a week or so for the web site address mean while you can ask any questions and hopefully i can help you out as this is my third hyper 7 so i have a pritty good idea on how they go and on some setup info and web sites hat may be of good use. please dont hesatate to contact me for any questions. my email is kxquad@hotmail.com
Mar 12th, 2007 at 7:51 pm
stu w Says
yes the hyper8 receiver box and radio tray will fit the hyper7 but its not
that straight forward as there isn’t that much space on the 7 chassis
and the rear torque rod will touch the box lid which won’t damage anything
but you have to be precise when drilling the chassis.
i found the best way was to draw round your box and tray together on tracing paper
marking the holes out then mark them on the chassis but i wasn’t able to drill all the holes from one side of the chassis because you have to keep it complete to make sure the radio tray doesn’t catch the servo saver it really is close but well worth the effort
since posting my first message ive finished mine with hyper8 tank and body
so for pics and more info on the conversion email me at kezzywink@yahoo.co.uk
Mar 16th, 2007 at 11:37 pm
john Says
hi, my hyper 7 is really hard to start the pull start is really stiff so stiff that you can hardly pull it. Is this normal? if not what shall i do?
Apr 6th, 2007 at 5:37 am
John B Says
I have been racing the hyper 7 tq since the 1st of the year it’s a good car not great but well enough that with the right setup good engine the car can run with the best of them. It’s a good starter car to see if it is for you.
Apr 11th, 2007 at 4:43 am
mabitch Says
Stu w, its dead easy to put hyper 8 bits on a 7, nothing complicated there. Brakes, you need to just keep trying until you get it right, although the fuel tube is a good idea its not always as it often affects the throttle opening too if not done right. Hard starting is best fixed with heat on a new engine, although when it jams sometimes a screwdriver to help the flywheel round is the only way, tuning settings are nearly always on the rich side, so dont be supprised by having totally different settings, as long as you know what to look for there is no problem.
And last but not least, to jim, great site and welcome to the nitro experience!
May 6th, 2007 at 10:08 am
Stu Says
I have a hyper 7 and it is great fun. I have tried to make it 2wd for a bit more fun. I took the front drive shaft out but found that the car barely moved when accelerating. I tried putting a pin through the connecting peice where the shaft was to stop it turning so it would take the load of the front and deliver full power to the rear. The car only seems to go about 10 kph like this. Somethings not working, just wondering if anyone has tried this and if so how to do it succsessfully? Any feedback would be great.
Jul 29th, 2007 at 9:35 pm
jim Says
To run 2 wheel drive effectively you’ll need to lock up the center diff so that it delivers all power to the rear. You may want to try taking it appart and filling it with an extremely stuiff greese and see if that helps. Or for a more permanant effect, clean it out and rebuild it with hot melt glue instead of greese. Of course, if you use glue you’ll need to buy a new center diff if you ever want to go back to 4wd again.
Jul 30th, 2007 at 4:37 pm
bredan Says
Hi all
i have a hyper 7 tq with an axial .28 motor, 16 tooth clutchbell, carbon brakes (hyper 8 centre diff), full custom carbon shock tower and servo tray.
they hyper 7 can be made FAST and with a little bit of TLC will give you alot of joy.
i had alot of problems with the stock brakes!!!!!!!! after replacing them with the carbon disks and calipers all the problems went away
Locking the centre diff will cause the car the steer really BAD if u want more drive to the rear wheel put a really thin oil in the centrediff as the diff will transfer most of the power to the back anyway. Another thing you can do if you want to do “burnouts” is tighten your front brakes by tensioning the 2 bolts that hold the calipers on
you will chew pads and the car will not go masivly fast but its great fun for dounuts and standstills 
Jul 31st, 2007 at 2:02 am
metalpancake Says
hi, I am 15 years old, and just got a hyper 7 for my birthday. I have’nt had any serious problems with it yet, and it goes really well.
I have a friend who also has one which went well for about 2 weeks, but now after starting it runs real rich, and often stalls within 30 secs of starting. we have tried tuning it, but nothing seems to be working…
Does anyone know anything about this problem? I would really apreciate some help!
Sep 23rd, 2007 at 8:25 pm
Adam D Says
Hi Jim, just found your site while looking for tuning tips for my H7 .28 and wanted to say that I think your site is mint!! It’s great for H7 users to come on here and share their problems with other users. I have has my car for 4 weeks now and I am loving it. I have found that some of the problems that I had running mine in are already listed on here and I wish I had come across this site sooner!!
If anyone else knows of other similar sites I would be ken to know the URL’s, but in the meantime, keep up the good work Jim. Thanks
Oct 10th, 2007 at 6:58 am
MattyB Says
Hey all, love the site.
I ordered my car a few hours ago, it’s getting run in for me as i type this, i can’t wait to use it.
thank god it’s the weekend!!!
Oct 26th, 2007 at 2:41 pm
michael tales Says
hi just got a hyper 7 and went to run the engine in and the pull start broke on the first go, does any one know how to re-spring a pull start? or has any body got 1 that i can buy from them please? ta
Jan 16th, 2008 at 11:18 pm
michael tales Says
hi just got a hyper 7 and went to run the engine in and the pull start broke on the first go, does any one know how to re-spring a pull start? or has any body got 1 that i can buy from them please? ta mt
Jan 16th, 2008 at 11:19 pm
Mike Says
Michael,
i snapped 2 pull starts whilst getting mine goin, Its a total nightmare but now im a pro at fixing these now and at least i have a spare (shouldnt need it if you start it right). I found a websire that showed me and i will post the link at the end of this, First when you have fixed the hyper take the glo plug out and put a little fuel into the head, Pull the start about 5 inches out and after 3-4 pulls you will see it loosen up a bit, Pop back in the glo plug tight and then loosen it of a 1/4 of a turn, Take the pipe of your exhaust and blow on it until you see the fuel reach the carb, Put the pipe back on and give it a pull, Only do 5inch pulls, after about 10 pulls it will start to fire, Keep going for about 5-6 more pulls and your off (now tighten the glo plug), Let it run through its first couple of tanks (make sure its not getting too hot tho)
You can get roto starts for these of ebay for about £20 (i have only found them for sale on the austrailian ebay)
Now mine is run in its a great little car and im tweaking it a little every time i have it out, Excellent bit of kit for the money!
here’s the link and good luck!
http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26982&st=0
Jan 20th, 2008 at 4:00 am
michael tales Says
ta m8 got a new pull start from modelsport in otley yorkshire got the engine run in and its a good little runner, going 2 tune it up and hopefully going to race it at nook raceway.
thanks again
Jan 22nd, 2008 at 9:05 pm
will Says
hey guys, can you help? my hyper 7 .21 is ripping through pull starters like no end! I got the car when it had been run for about 30 mins, and the spring broke in the first one. The second one burned through one day after I fitted it. What am I doing wrong?
Jan 19th, 2009 at 1:17 am
AL from Australia Says
I just got my hands on the hyper 7 tq 21 black edition. A little hard to start at first as is expected with a car that has never been turned over. Once going, its a fantastic buggy. I use it on a large grass feild nearby and have had no problems with the steering servo. I have found the servo response adjustment on the Futaba/Hobao control to eliminate weak steering response. All in all a fast and very tough little buggy, way better than the GV Dominator that the hobby shop offered as its alternative.
Feb 11th, 2009 at 8:48 am
VINCE Says
Hi all, I had some trouble with hyper 7 and I don’t know what is wrong with it . well I try to roll it on the ground and it don’t roll or move so I check the brake and the brake is not lock, and I try to push hard on the ground it have a “pop” sound like the engines is stopping the car rolling. so how can I fix it. thank all
Mar 2nd, 2009 at 1:09 pm
HYPERG78 Says
check to see if no grit is in engine tho it might be that your clutch bell gear is to close to your spur gear, try adjusting the line of the engine,check to see if your clutch bell spins forever also your car should roll freely on the ground so check all cva joints are mooving freely and that all dog bones do to, if car is off ground spin one wheel, the oppisit wheel should rotate other way and try rotating both back wheels then do the same for the front if you find one of these PARTS LISTED doesnt work ie moov freely then thats where your problem lies.
Apr 15th, 2009 at 11:45 pm
Derek Says
First of this is a very nice little site
I have been running a hyper 7 for about a year now and love it
The mac .28 expired the other day so i have stuck a force .36 in the hole. It was a bit of a pain to fit and i had to drill out and retap 2 of the engine mount holes and enlarge the slider plate holes but it’s in and ripping! thinking of locking center diff so i can do wheelies what do you think? or should i go for very thick grease?
Cheers
Derek
Apr 23rd, 2009 at 8:03 am
Matt Says
hey i just bought a hyper 7 and was wonderin if any one in perth knows where the ryper raceway is email me at matteydreya@hotmail.com.au
May 16th, 2009 at 10:44 am
lee Says
hi all.i bought a hyper 7.i was wondering if anyone new the factory settings.i had it going yesterday and half way thru a tank of fuel it died and i cant get it going again.i have put a new glow plug in and still wont go(bought it second hand).im new to these nitro cars.i also have a traxxas jato 3.3 blown motor and a losi 1/8 raminator.any help with the hyper 7 would be appreciated. cheers Lee.
Jun 8th, 2009 at 4:06 pm
Patrick Says
Hi all,
I HAVE JUST GOT A NEW HYPER 7 TQ .28
MY CAR START S BUT DOESNT STEAM. ONCE I STOP REVING IT JUST GOES OFF AFTER 3SEC.
HAS ANYBODY GOT AN IDEA HOW TO FIX THIS.
Dec 6th, 2009 at 1:40 pm
Tony Says
Hi Jim, i’ve just found your website & am enjoying it. I’ve had 4 Hyper-7’s ,picked them up cheap as basket cases mostly, & i’ve found them to be good machines. I mainly race mugen 1/10th & 1/8th on rd cars & haven’t yet raced in 1/8th buggy but i do race a modified TT MTA-4 OS.30 powered, & a modified T-MAXX OS.18 powered in 1/8th & 1/10 MT class, Good Fun. If that fella Vince is still having trouble ?? it sounds like his clutch bell bearings have collapsed. 1/8th clutch bell bearings in particular have a knack of failing regularly & so i check them every time i clean my cars. My Hyper-7 at present runs a JP FX .21B8T & generates some serious power so i am aware of proper maintainance to : Diffs, clutch bell & bell bearings, clutch shoes &springs, & running high torque servo’s is pretty much a “must” !! Spend a bit more & get Digitals !! They’re well worth the $$$$ for the handling improvement you’ll get !!! I hope to get the time to race my hyper-7 soon & as i live in QLD Australia i now have some serious high end competition with all the X-Ray’s , Mugens, etc people now race. But i’m gonna get the old girl out & see if i can keep up with them, lol , why not. I don’t know where this’ll end up as most of the Q & A’s are from a year or so ago but am having a go anyway, anyone need any help with anything nitro feel free to contact me. Thanks Jim, good stuff. Tony.
Jul 17th, 2010 at 2:32 pm
Tony Says
To Patrick, sounds like your throttle trim is setup wrong. Take the aircleaner off, look into the carb while working your throttle, at neautral throttle your carb should be open around 1mm , if it idles too high adjust a bit smaller with the small carb screw on the side of the carb, then open the throttle all the way via your Tx. The carb slide should be wide open ? If not, check the trim or your linkages. Same with brakes, the carb should return to 1mm gap, & be sure to do all this with the engine not running ok. Hope you’ve allready got it sorted but if not ??? Hope it helps.
Jul 17th, 2010 at 2:42 pm